Owner guide manual

Several different engine issues may be present if your exhaust pipe is putting out black smoke. In a Toyota or any other make of car, black smoke is a key indicator that the fuel/air mixture is out of whack. All cars use a specific ratio of fuel and air in the combustion chamber; if the percentage of fuel rises beyond specifications, the mixture is too rich and black smoke is the result.

Instructions

Diagnosing Black Exhaust Smoke

1

Check your air filter, which is a common source of a too-rich fuel/air ratio. Taking in dust, grit and smoke from the road, the filter can get clogged and lose its ability to pass an adequate supply of air into the carburetor and engine. Remove the air filter and, if it is dirty or full of grit and/or sand, throw it away.

2

Inspect the carburetor by removing the air filter, which rides on top of the carburetor. A small rectangular flap known as a choke plate is fixed longitudinally across the carburetor barrel; if this plate is firmly closed and cant be manipulated to open with a screwdriver or other tool, you have a stuck choke plate. The plate is not allowing adequate air into the carburetor and, as a result, your engine is running too rich. Try WD-40 or other spray lubricant on the choke plate to free it of gunk that may be affecting its movement. If the plate still wont move or is otherwise not opening and closing freely, have a mechanic replace it.

3

Bring your car to a reputable garage and have a mechanic inspect your fuel-injection system. Computer-controlled sensors are responsible for the fuel-injection operation; these sensors can malfunction or simply stop operating, requiring their replacement. The airflow sensor, throttle position sensor and coolant sensor all have a bearing on the fuel/air ratio burned in your engines combustion chambers.

4

Ask your mechanic to inspect your vacuum regulator. Fuel is fed into the engine combustion chamber under pressure, which is controlled by this device. The regulator can malfunction and cause fuel pressure to rise beyond specified limits; the regulator can also rupture, allowing fuel into the vacuum line that directly feeds into the chamber. The mechanic will examine the vacuum feed line, test the system with a pressure gauge and check for the presence of fuel. The regulator may need to be replaced.

5

Run a pressure test on your vacuum line. You may have a vacuum leak, in which air is escaping from the combustion chambers or vacuum line, causing the engine to run too rich. Vacuum leaks can affect engine performance in other ways, and cannot be repaired in your own driveway. Have a mechanic run a vacuum test on your engine to determine if this is the source of the problem.

The BMW 318is was a compact sporty luxury car that BMW produced from 1992 to 1998. The 1994 model was fitted with the M42B18 engine, which is a four-cylinder 1.8-liter. This engine has a single cylinder head on top of the engine block that covers all four cylinders. The cylinder head is part of the combustion chamber and also contains the poppet valves that open and close the ports in the cylinder head.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Disconnect the intake and exhaust manifolds. Remove the cover from the ignition coil. Disconnect the electrical wires from the spark plugs and the ignition coil.

2

Disconnect the cover for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Detach the radiator hoses from the engine, and disconnect the crankshaft position sensor from the crankshaft. Detach the thermostat housing for the thermostat, and remove the thermostat from the engine. Disconnect the mounting screws on the cover for the timing case, and remove the cover.

3

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand until the arrows on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets face straight up. Disconnect the tensioner for the timing chain with a socket wrench. Remove the mounting bolt on the right side of the upper guide for the timing chain, and disconnect the guide. Detach the timing chain from the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. Remove the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets.

4

Disconnect the mounting bolts from the cylinder head with a socket wrench by loosening the bolts in several passes. Begin from the outside bolts and proceed to the inside bolts. Lift the cylinder head from the crankcase, and remove the cylinder head gasket on the engine block.

5

Remove all traces of the gasket from the crankcase and the cylinder head with a gasket scraper. Remove all debris from the new mounting bolts for the cylinder head. Install a new gasket for the cylinder head, using the markings on the gasket as a guide.

6

Mount the new cylinder head to the crankcase, and install the new mounting bolts for the cylinder head. Begin tightening the bolts in the center of the cylinder head and proceed outward in a crisscross pattern. Tighten the bolts to 24 foot-pounds with a torque wrench on the first pass. Tighten the mounting bolts an additional 93 degrees with a socket wrench on the second pass. Tighten the mounting bolts another 93 degrees on the third pass.

7

Turn the crankshaft clockwise so that its timing mark points straight up, and hold the crankshaft in place with tool 11-2-300. Turn the camshaft clockwise so that its timing mark points straight up, and hold the camshaft in place with tool 11-3-240. Mount camshaft sprockets to the camshaft so the arrows on the camshaft sprockets point straight up.

8

Tighten the mounting bolts on the camshaft to between 10 and 12 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Mount the timing chain onto the sprockets, and mount the upper guide for the timing chain. Fasten the bolt for the timing chain guide with a socket wrench.

9

Tap the tensioner housing with a rubber mallet to release the piston from the housing. Place the tensioner in a vise, and push the ends together to engage the snap rings. Place the tensioner into its bore on the crankcase, and tighten the tensioner plug to between 17 and 19 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Press the rail on the tensioner to release the piston.

10

Disconnect the holding tools on the camshaft and crankshaft. Place a new gasket on the upper timing case cover, and fill in any gaps between the gasket and timing case cover with non-hardening sealer.

11

Mount the cylinder head cover to the cylinder head. Tighten the 6-mm mounting bolts to between 6 and 7 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the 8-mm mounting bolts to between 15 and 17 foot-pounds. Install the thermostat with the vents facing up. Attach the thermostat housing and torque its mounting bolts to between 6 and 7 foot-pounds.

12

Install the crankshaft position sensor to the crankshaft, and attach the radiator hose to the crankcase. Replace the valve cover with a socket wrench. Attach the electrical wiring for the ignition coil and spark plugs. Install the ignition coil cover. Install the exhaust and intake manifolds.

13

Add coolant and oil as needed. Connect the cable for the battery cable using a socket wrench.

There is a verified problem with Harley-Davidson Big Twin compensating sprockets. The compensating sprocket buffers torque from the engine and the limitations with this part may be most obvious in newer, big bore engines. A part that was adequate in an 82-cubic-inch engine may not be adequate in a 103-cubic-inch engine. Harley has not issued a recall. The company is, however, selling a reinforced compensator replacement kit, part number 40274-08. The symptoms of a bad compensator are a loud clang at start up, trouble shifting into first or neutral and a sound like gravel in the front of the primary around 2200 RPM. But, the only way to know for sure that you have this problem is to pull the primary cover off and look.

Instructions

1

Remove the primary chain case drain plug on the bottom of the chain case under the clutch cover with an Allen socket and a socket wrench. Drain the primary chain case fluid into a pan.

2

Inspect the magnetic end of the drain plug for bits of metal. Dredge the drained primary chain case fluid with a magnetic probe. Inspect the probe for bits of metal.

3

Remove the five clutch cover screws with an Allen or Torx socket (depending on the year and model of your bike) and a socket wrench. Remove the round clutch cover and gasket. Discard the gasket.

4

Remove all four screws in the oval inspection cover with an Allen or Torx socket and a socket wrench. Remove the cover and gasket. Discard the gasket.

5

Remove all 12 primary chain case cover screws with an Allen or Torx socket and a socket wrench. Remove the primary chain case cover.

6

Remove and discard the primary chain case cover gasket and both primary chain case tower gaskets inside the primary.

7

Inspect the compensating sprocket, the clutch, the chain and the chain tensioner for obvious defects or wear.

8

Heat the compensating sprocket nut with a heat gun to loosen the nut. Remove the compensating sprocket nut with a hex socket and a breaker bar.

9

Remove the spacer, sprocket cover, sliding cam and compensating sprocket. Clean and inspect all components for wear. Replace or repair as needed.

10

Inspect the shaft extension for wear before beginning reassembly. Clean the threads on the engine sprocket shaft and the internal threads in the sprocket nut with Loctite 7649 cleaner/primer or equivalent.

11

Apply thread locker to the threads on the engine sprocket shaft. Apply engine oil to the underside of the sprocket nut.

12

Replace the compensating sprocket, sliding cam, sprocket cover and spacer. Hand tighten the sprocket nut.

13

Tighten the sprocket nut to 75 foot-pounds of torque with a hex socket and a torque wrench.

14

Install two new tower gaskets and a new primary chain case cover gasket. Replace the primary chain case cover.

15

Tighten the primary cover screws to 120 inch-pounds of torque with a Torx or Allen socket and a torque wrench in the exact tightening sequence described in the service manual for your motorcycle.

16

Replace the inspection cover with a new inspection cover gasket. Coat the threads of the of the primary drain plug with Teflon paste and replace the drain plug

17

Pour primary chain case lubricant into the primary chain case until the lubricant just touches the bottom of the clutch. Replace the clutch cover with a new clutch cover gasket.

18

Check for leaks. Road test the motorcycle.

Metal handlebars are strong, lightweight bent tubes used on motorcycles for steering the front wheel. Over time the finish on handlebars can become scraped, exposing the bare metal. Exposed metal rusts and oxidizes, eventually reducing the handlebar strength. Rust and oxidation on the handlebars can also spread to other parts on the motorcycle, lowering its value and usability. Removing the damaged metal from a handlebar reduces the chance rust will spread and maintains its structural integrity.

Instructions

1

Slide the handlebar grips off the handlebars. If the grips have a metal attachment screw at the end, remove this first with a screwdriver. Pull the grips the same direction as the handlebar ends, twisting back and forth if necessary to loosen it. On the throttle side of the handlebars, twist only the opposite way of open throttle to loosen the grip.

2

Remove all cable, throttle assembly, mirror and gauge brackets on the handlebars using a screwdriver to loosen the tightening screws. Once loose, pull the brackets off the handlebars by bending the bracket sides apart with pliers. If the bracket is tight, slide it off the handlebars to avoid breaking it. Set each component gently on the front fender or strut of the motorcycle.

3

Unbolt the handlebar attachment brackets using a socket set, which frees the handlebars from the front end fork for removal. Keep the top parts of the brackets and the respective bolts in a plastic bag to avoid losing them. Pull the handlebars off the fork while avoiding any sharp metal edges.

4

Remove the finish, rust and oxidation from the handlebars using a bench grinder fitted with a soft wire wheel. This process is known as deburring and is performed by brushing the handlebars lengthwise on the grinder the same way the wheel is spinning. Spin the handlebars often while deburring to ensure all the finish and defects are removed.

5

Sand the handlebars using 800 or higher grit sandpaper to remove any scoring caused by the wire wheel and creates a paintable surface on the handlebars.

6

Prime the handlebars with a bare metal primer designed to stop rust. Allow to dry at least 12 hours, then apply the finishing paint of choice and allow to dry another 12 hours. Apply semi-gloss to the handlebars, if desired, to produce a shiny finish.

7

Wait 24 hours after applying semi-gloss. Reinstall the handlebars on the forks using the socket set and brackets.

8

Install mirror, throttle, cable and gauge components and respective brackets. Slide the handlebar grips back on to complete the handlebar metal removal.

As with any engine, MerCruiser boat engines require regular oil changes to continue functioning properly. Changing the oil in a 3.0-liter MerCruiser engine requires you to pump the old oil out of the crankcase using a special oil hand pump that can be purchased at any boat parts supplier. Once youve pumped the old oil out of the engine, its simply a matter of replacing the oil filter and illing the engine with the proper amount and type of oil.

Instructions

1

Warm up the oil in your MerCruiser by running the engine for ten to fifteen minutes. Ensure that nobody is around the engine, and that your boat (if the engine is still attached) or the engine (if detached) is properly supported. Warming up the oil will help the old oil to flow from the crankcase when youre pumping it by hand.

2

Screw the end of the hand pumps hose to the threaded nozzle at the end of the dipstick tube. You must remove the dipstick first.

3

Open the oil fill cap.

4

Pump the oil from your MerCruisers crankcase by hand.

5

Crack the oil filter off its threads with a strap wrench before removing the filter by hand. Prepare for some excess oil to run out of the filter and onto the engine block. Clean any oil that spills from the filter with a clean cloth.

6

Wipe some clean engine oil around the rim of your replacement filter. This will not only help you remove the filter during your next oil change, but it will actually create a tighter seal between the oil filter and the connection point on the engine.

7

Attach the new filter by hand. Once the seal of the filter meets the seal of the engine, turn the filter only one half to three-quarters of a turn more.

8

Fill your MerCruiser with four to five quarts of 15w-30 motor oil, depending on how much it takes to fill the engines crankcase and oil filter. Check your dipstick after filling the engine with 3.5 quarts to check your progress.

You can clear the 55 codes on your 2000 Ford Explorer right from your home garage, saving yourself time and money. You dont need any specialized tools to clear all the codes. The Ford Explorer comes standard with an On-Board Diagnostics II computer that monitors all functions of the vehicle. When it detects a malfunction in the Explorer, it stores a trouble code that can be read later by a scan tool in order to exactly diagnose the problem. To clear 55 codes, you need to zero out the computer by disconnecting the battery. This allows the computer to reset itself completely.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood of the Explorer and prop it up with a safety bar. Locate the negative battery terminal. Find the nut on top of the clamp that is attached to the terminal. Loosen this nut with a wrench.

2

Slide the clamp off of the negative terminal and make sure it doesnt touch anything metal or the positive side of the battery.

3

Wait 30 minutes while the computer resets itself.

4

Reattach the clamp to the negative terminal and tighten the nut. Lower the hood of the vehicle.

5

Put the key into the ignition and start the vehicle. Verify that all warning and service lights have shut off.