Owner guide manual

All vehicles produced from 1996 onwards are considered electronically controlled. This means that the only true mechanical part is the core engine itself. All other aspects are controlled by electronics in one way or another. There are hundreds of electronic components on each engine, but only a few are key components that perform major functions.

Alternator

The alternator is a key component of the engine and the entire vehicle as it converts the movement of the engine into the electricity the vehicle needs. It converts the movement utilizing a belt that connects to the main pulley of the engine. That belt turns the rotor (a coil of wire wrapped around an iron core). The rotor has 12 volts of power coming form the battery to create a magnetic field. When this rotor spins, the magnetic field creates an electrical current through the three stators (coils of wire along the casing of the alternator). This electricity is then passed through diodes to convert it to direct current and a regulator that senses the vehicles power needs and adjusts the output accordingly.

Starter

The starter is a high-powered electrical component that cranks the engine at start up. When the ignition key is turned, the gear inside the starter is pushed outward onto the flywheel and spun. This spinning action turns the engine by way of the flywheel spinning. Once the key is released, the gear is retracted into the starter housing, and it stops spinning.

Coil

The 12 volts that the battery puts out are not nearly enough power to ignite fuel; a vehicle needs at least 10,000 to 15,000 volts to perform this task. This is where the coil comes into play. The ignition coil has a series of copper wire windings around an iron core. This creates a strong magnetic field which takes the 12 volts from the battery and converts them to upwards of 40,000 volts. That voltage is then sent to the spark plugs. There are three types of coils. The older style has one coil that sends power to a distributor then to the plugs. The replacement for that was a more direct system where the power went straight from the coil to the plugs by way of wires. The newest and most efficient is the coil-on-plug. In this system, each individual spark plug has its own coil resting on top of it.

Sensors

Two of the main sensors in your engine are the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor. Both of these sensors perform similar tasks, just with different components. The camshaft opens and closes the intake and exhaust valves, so the computer must know if the camshaft has the right valves opened at certain times. The camshaft position sensor lets the computer know this information. The crankshaft is what regulates the up and down movement of the pistons inside of the cylinder. The computer needs to know the position of the crankshaft, the RPM of the crankshaft and misfire information.The crankshaft position sensor relays this information to the computer.

The BMW 318is was a compact sporty luxury car that BMW produced from 1992 to 1998. The 1994 model was fitted with the M42B18 engine, which is a four-cylinder 1.8-liter. This engine has a single cylinder head on top of the engine block that covers all four cylinders. The cylinder head is part of the combustion chamber and also contains the poppet valves that open and close the ports in the cylinder head.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Disconnect the intake and exhaust manifolds. Remove the cover from the ignition coil. Disconnect the electrical wires from the spark plugs and the ignition coil.

2

Disconnect the cover for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Detach the radiator hoses from the engine, and disconnect the crankshaft position sensor from the crankshaft. Detach the thermostat housing for the thermostat, and remove the thermostat from the engine. Disconnect the mounting screws on the cover for the timing case, and remove the cover.

3

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand until the arrows on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets face straight up. Disconnect the tensioner for the timing chain with a socket wrench. Remove the mounting bolt on the right side of the upper guide for the timing chain, and disconnect the guide. Detach the timing chain from the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. Remove the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets.

4

Disconnect the mounting bolts from the cylinder head with a socket wrench by loosening the bolts in several passes. Begin from the outside bolts and proceed to the inside bolts. Lift the cylinder head from the crankcase, and remove the cylinder head gasket on the engine block.

5

Remove all traces of the gasket from the crankcase and the cylinder head with a gasket scraper. Remove all debris from the new mounting bolts for the cylinder head. Install a new gasket for the cylinder head, using the markings on the gasket as a guide.

6

Mount the new cylinder head to the crankcase, and install the new mounting bolts for the cylinder head. Begin tightening the bolts in the center of the cylinder head and proceed outward in a crisscross pattern. Tighten the bolts to 24 foot-pounds with a torque wrench on the first pass. Tighten the mounting bolts an additional 93 degrees with a socket wrench on the second pass. Tighten the mounting bolts another 93 degrees on the third pass.

7

Turn the crankshaft clockwise so that its timing mark points straight up, and hold the crankshaft in place with tool 11-2-300. Turn the camshaft clockwise so that its timing mark points straight up, and hold the camshaft in place with tool 11-3-240. Mount camshaft sprockets to the camshaft so the arrows on the camshaft sprockets point straight up.

8

Tighten the mounting bolts on the camshaft to between 10 and 12 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Mount the timing chain onto the sprockets, and mount the upper guide for the timing chain. Fasten the bolt for the timing chain guide with a socket wrench.

9

Tap the tensioner housing with a rubber mallet to release the piston from the housing. Place the tensioner in a vise, and push the ends together to engage the snap rings. Place the tensioner into its bore on the crankcase, and tighten the tensioner plug to between 17 and 19 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Press the rail on the tensioner to release the piston.

10

Disconnect the holding tools on the camshaft and crankshaft. Place a new gasket on the upper timing case cover, and fill in any gaps between the gasket and timing case cover with non-hardening sealer.

11

Mount the cylinder head cover to the cylinder head. Tighten the 6-mm mounting bolts to between 6 and 7 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the 8-mm mounting bolts to between 15 and 17 foot-pounds. Install the thermostat with the vents facing up. Attach the thermostat housing and torque its mounting bolts to between 6 and 7 foot-pounds.

12

Install the crankshaft position sensor to the crankshaft, and attach the radiator hose to the crankcase. Replace the valve cover with a socket wrench. Attach the electrical wiring for the ignition coil and spark plugs. Install the ignition coil cover. Install the exhaust and intake manifolds.

13

Add coolant and oil as needed. Connect the cable for the battery cable using a socket wrench.

Metal handlebars are strong, lightweight bent tubes used on motorcycles for steering the front wheel. Over time the finish on handlebars can become scraped, exposing the bare metal. Exposed metal rusts and oxidizes, eventually reducing the handlebar strength. Rust and oxidation on the handlebars can also spread to other parts on the motorcycle, lowering its value and usability. Removing the damaged metal from a handlebar reduces the chance rust will spread and maintains its structural integrity.

Instructions

1

Slide the handlebar grips off the handlebars. If the grips have a metal attachment screw at the end, remove this first with a screwdriver. Pull the grips the same direction as the handlebar ends, twisting back and forth if necessary to loosen it. On the throttle side of the handlebars, twist only the opposite way of open throttle to loosen the grip.

2

Remove all cable, throttle assembly, mirror and gauge brackets on the handlebars using a screwdriver to loosen the tightening screws. Once loose, pull the brackets off the handlebars by bending the bracket sides apart with pliers. If the bracket is tight, slide it off the handlebars to avoid breaking it. Set each component gently on the front fender or strut of the motorcycle.

3

Unbolt the handlebar attachment brackets using a socket set, which frees the handlebars from the front end fork for removal. Keep the top parts of the brackets and the respective bolts in a plastic bag to avoid losing them. Pull the handlebars off the fork while avoiding any sharp metal edges.

4

Remove the finish, rust and oxidation from the handlebars using a bench grinder fitted with a soft wire wheel. This process is known as deburring and is performed by brushing the handlebars lengthwise on the grinder the same way the wheel is spinning. Spin the handlebars often while deburring to ensure all the finish and defects are removed.

5

Sand the handlebars using 800 or higher grit sandpaper to remove any scoring caused by the wire wheel and creates a paintable surface on the handlebars.

6

Prime the handlebars with a bare metal primer designed to stop rust. Allow to dry at least 12 hours, then apply the finishing paint of choice and allow to dry another 12 hours. Apply semi-gloss to the handlebars, if desired, to produce a shiny finish.

7

Wait 24 hours after applying semi-gloss. Reinstall the handlebars on the forks using the socket set and brackets.

8

Install mirror, throttle, cable and gauge components and respective brackets. Slide the handlebar grips back on to complete the handlebar metal removal.

Engine coolant temperature is a well-known facet of performance, but never forget that coolant temperature indicates only the temperature of oil and metal in the engine. If engine or oil temperatures are too low, the engine cannot deliver the horsepower, torque and fuel economy that its designed to. Add in emissions compliance and computer controls and youve got a smorgasbord of reasons to sit back and let the car warm up before you drive.

Temperature Basics

Things expand when they get hot. This basic tenet of physics is why the SR-71 Blackbird was 8 inches longer at mach three than in its hangar on the ground, and its why engines run better when hot. Engines contain dozens of parts, all moving at very high speeds and at close tolerances to each other. Automotive engineers build engines with the assumption that theyll run at a certain temperature; below that temperature, the engines internal clearances are too tight and the engine may seize up rather than spin.

Oiling

Temperature also has a powerful effect on oil. Engine oil is much like vegetable oil in that it thins with higher temperature. Engine oil thickens at very low temperatures, and will eventually gel -- like vegetable shortening -- to the point that it wont flow through the engine. The tight bearing clearances at low temperatures only exacerbate the oiling problem, posing further restrictions to oiling and increasing bearing wear. The German invasion of Russia during WWII brings to light the importance of oil temperature. While German crews attempted to keep tanks running by building fires under their engines oil pans, ultimately, oil freezing brought on by the brutal Russian winter sent those tanks and personnel carriers scurrying back to Europe.

Catalytic Converter Function

A catalytic converter is a two-part blast furnace. The first half of the converter catches unburned fuel, combining it with oxygen to complete the combustion. This process is just like the one in your engine, creating heat as a by-product of combustion. This heat drives the converters second stage, where nitrogen oxides and other pollutants convert to more inert forms. A converter takes time to "light off," and most fuel-injection computers will increase the fuel-to-air ratio in order to light the converter off more quickly. This change in fuel-to-air ratio will inevitably result in worse fuel economy and poor performance during the period of time before converter light-off.

Driver Comfort

Most cars have two radiators. All drivers are familiar with the engines primary heat exchanger, the one in front that transfers excess engine heat to the surrounding airstream. The engines second radiator -- known as the heater core -- also transfers engines heat to air, but in this case that air is ducted into the passenger compartment. Giving the engine a bit of time to warm up will ensure that the heater and defroster work when you sit down to drive. The heater is a pretty good indicator of engine temperature, so the rule of thumb is to wait for the heater to warm up before setting off.

Manufacturer Recommendations

Read the owners manual on some modern cars and youll find instructions that say not to allow the vehicle to warm up before driving away. Thats really more of a suggestion than a commandment, and it has everything to do with emissions. As mentioned, a catalytic converter works like a blast furnace, taking unburned fuel and converting it to heat to enable the converters secondary reactions. An idling car takes longer to light off the converter than one thats cruising down the road under an extremely fuel-rich cold-start mixture, so the manufacturers edicts regarding driving right away have more to do with emissions compliance than anything else. Its a numbers game for manufacturers; your cold engine is going to burn a lot of fuel and produce terrible emissions no matter what, so they figure it might as well be while youre moving down the road.

As with any engine, MerCruiser boat engines require regular oil changes to continue functioning properly. Changing the oil in a 3.0-liter MerCruiser engine requires you to pump the old oil out of the crankcase using a special oil hand pump that can be purchased at any boat parts supplier. Once youve pumped the old oil out of the engine, its simply a matter of replacing the oil filter and illing the engine with the proper amount and type of oil.

Instructions

1

Warm up the oil in your MerCruiser by running the engine for ten to fifteen minutes. Ensure that nobody is around the engine, and that your boat (if the engine is still attached) or the engine (if detached) is properly supported. Warming up the oil will help the old oil to flow from the crankcase when youre pumping it by hand.

2

Screw the end of the hand pumps hose to the threaded nozzle at the end of the dipstick tube. You must remove the dipstick first.

3

Open the oil fill cap.

4

Pump the oil from your MerCruisers crankcase by hand.

5

Crack the oil filter off its threads with a strap wrench before removing the filter by hand. Prepare for some excess oil to run out of the filter and onto the engine block. Clean any oil that spills from the filter with a clean cloth.

6

Wipe some clean engine oil around the rim of your replacement filter. This will not only help you remove the filter during your next oil change, but it will actually create a tighter seal between the oil filter and the connection point on the engine.

7

Attach the new filter by hand. Once the seal of the filter meets the seal of the engine, turn the filter only one half to three-quarters of a turn more.

8

Fill your MerCruiser with four to five quarts of 15w-30 motor oil, depending on how much it takes to fill the engines crankcase and oil filter. Check your dipstick after filling the engine with 3.5 quarts to check your progress.

1 – the resonant chamber;
2 – an inlet air branch pipe;
3 – a cover;
4 – a filtering element of the original hyundai parts air filter; 5 – the case of the air filter;
6 – a bolt, 8–10 Н•м;
7 – a bolt, 4–6 Н•м;
8 – the resonant chamber.


Removal
PERFORMANCE ORDER
1. Remove the inlet air branch pipe hyundai car parts connected to the air filter.
2. Remove a hose of an hyundai parts oe air inlet from the air filter.
3. Remove a cover of the air filter and filtering element hyundai factory part
of the air filter.


4. Turn out bolts and remove the case of the air filter.

Check
PERFORMANCE ORDER
1. Check up the case of the air filter and a cover on absence hyundai parts oe of deformations, corrosion or damages.
2. Check up an air line on absence of damages.
3. Check up the original hyundai parts resonant chamber on absence of deformation or damages.


4. Check up filtering element of the air filter on absence of excessive pollution, damage or hit on it oils. For clearing of a filtering hyundai car parts element use compressed air, hyundai parts catalogue submitting it from the interior of a filtering element. If necessary, replace filtering element of the air filter.
5. Check up the case of the air filter on absence of pollution or damage.

Installation

Installation is spent to hyundai factory part
sequences, return to removal.

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1 – a stopper, 40–50 Н•м;
2 – a sealing ring;
3 – плунжер;
4 – a bolt, 12–15 Н•м;
5 – a forward sealing ring;
6 – a forward cover;
7 – an internal gear wheel of the oil pump;
8 – an external gear wheel of the oil pump;
9 – a cover of the oil pump;
10 – a lining;
11 – a lining;
12 – Oil gathering a tube;
13 – a bolt, 15–22 Н•м;
14 – the oil pallet;
15 – the oil filter.

The prevention

At stopper installation it is necessary to use a new sealing ring.
Removal
PERFORMANCE ORDER
1. Remove a gear belt.
2. Turn out all bolts of fastening of the oil pallet.
3. Remove the oil pallet.
4. Remove the oil filter.
5. Remove a forward cover hyundai factory part from the block of cylinders.
6. Remove a cover of the oil pump.
7. Remove internal and external gear wheels of the oil pump from a forward cover, preliminary having noted their mutual position.
8. Turn out a stopper and remove a spring andплунжер.



Check
PERFORMANCE ORDER
1. Check up a forward cover on absence of cracks or damages and if necessary replace it.
2. Check up a forward sealing ring on absence of deterioration or damage of working edges and if necessary replace it.
3. Check up a condition of the oil pallet and if necessary replace it.
4. Check up the mesh oil filter on absence of damages and if necessary replace it.
5. Check up a forward cover on absence of deterioration or damages to places of contact to gear wheels of the oil pump and if necessary replace it.
6. Check up a condition of the safety valve established in a forward cover.
7. Check up the form and absence of damages of a spring of a safety valve.

Length of a spring a free condition: 46,6 mm
Length under loading: 6,1 kg / of 40,1 mm
8. Check up absence of deterioration or damage of teeths of gear wheels of the oil pump.


9. measure a backlash between a gear wheel of the oil pump and a nest in a cover.

Maximum permissible backlash of an external gear wheel of the oil pump: 0,12–0,18 mm


10. measure a hyundai parts catalogue backlash between teeths of gear wheels of the oil pump.

Maximum permissible backlash between teeths of gear wheels of the oil pump: 0,001–0,003 mm
11. By a metal ruler and measure a lateral backlash of gear wheels of the oil pump.

Maximum permissible hyundai factory part lateral backlash of rotors of the oil pump: 0,04–0,06 mm


Installation of a forward cover
PERFORMANCE ORDER


Establish a forward cover with a new hyundai parts catalogue lining and fix bolts, having tightened their demanded moment.

Length of bolts: And – 25 mm; In – 28 mm; With – 45 mm; D – 60 mm; the inhaling moment – 12–15 Н•м



Installation of a forward oil sealing ring
PERFORMANCE ORDER
1. Check up a forward sealing ring on absence of hyundai car parts deterioration or damage of working edges and if necessary replace it.
2. Check up a condition of the spring ring which hyundai parts oem are pressing out working edges of a sealing ring.


3. Grease an external surface of a new sealing ring with engine oil. The special tool 09231–22100 or the plug of hyundai factory part the corresponding diameter establish a sealing ring on a cranked shaft to a contact of a forward cover.
4. The special tool 09231–22000 establish a sealing ring against the stop in a nest of a forward cover


5. Establish a pulley of a cranked shaft, a gear belt and a pulley of a cranked shaft.
6. Establish the oil filter.
7. Clear of the rests of an old lining interfaced original hyundai parts surfaces of the oil pallet and the block of cylinders.


8. Put a continuous layer of hermetic in diameter of 4 mm on an interfaced surface of the oil pallet. Round apertures for bolts hermetic have from the inside. After hermetic drawing it is necessary to establish the pallet no more than in 15 minutes
9. Establish the oil pallet on hyundai parts oem the block of cylinders and fix bolts.

The inhaling moments: 6–8 Н•м



Installation of the oil pump
PERFORMANCE ORDER
1. Establish external and internal gear wheels of the oil pump in a forward cover.
2. Establish a cover of the original hyundai parts oil pump and fix its bolts. After a tightening of bolts be convinced, that gear wheels are turned easily and smoothly.

The inhaling moments: 6–9 Н•м
3. Establish a safety valve, a spring and turn hyundai car parts a stopper, having tightened its demanded moment. Before installation grease a safety valve with engine oil.

The inhaling moments: 40–50 Н•м